SSome tips when using knit patterns only

(Cotton Jersey, wool Jersey, polyester Jersey, viscose Jersey, scuba)

 

Some patterns will only be suitable for knit fabrics also referred to as stretch and Jersey fabrics.

These patterns are designed with negative ease ; it means the finished garment will be slightly smaller than your measurements. This is because the garment is meant to stretch and hug your body.

Using a fabric without enough stretch will result in a garment that is too tight or doesn’t fit at all. Patterns designed for knits often have markings on the back of the packet so you can do a stretch test. For example here you take a section of fabric as long as the black bar and check if it can be stretched to the arrow at the end of the white bar. If it stretches this far and returns back to it’s original position afterwards (known as recovery), it should be fine.

Equally using a stretch fabric for a non stretch pattern can result in a baggy, shapeless garment unless you make adjustments to the pattern. There are suggested methods recommended for making these alterations so it is best to do your research before attempting it.

It is also worth recognising that stretch fabrics can be two way stretch or four way stretch and certain patterns will only be suitable for one of these types.

Two way stretch fabrics stretch width ways across your body (NB : the stretch of the fabric should always be across the body for two way stretch fabrics).

Four way stretch fabrics also stretch lengthways and diagonally.

 

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What project with knits ?

 

Cotton Jersey,

Wool jersey

 

 

 

Excellent drape. Matt finish stretch fabric.

Tops, skirts, dresses

 

 

Intermediate sewing level.

Correct tools necessary.

 

 

Polyester Jersey,

Viscose jersey

 

 

 

 

Excellent drape. Sheen finish stretch fabric.

Tops, skirts, dresses

 

 

Intermediate sewing level.

Correct tools necessary.

 

 

Scuba

 

 

Firm knit. No drape. Suitable for

skirts, dresses, jackets

 

Intermediate sewing level.

Correct tools necessary.

 

 

Cutting your Jersey

The most important thing when cutting Jersey fabric is not to stretch it. Lay it flat on the table, either single or double layered depending on your pattern, and place your pattern pieces on it.

Make sure the fabric doesn’t hang over the side of your table as this will stretch it out of shape. You can either pin your pattern down and cut it out with scissors or use paper weights and a rotary cutter.

 

Sewing your Jersey

All knit fabrics should be sewn with a special needle, either a ball point or stretch needle. A ballpoint needle has a round top and pushes the fibres away when sewing rather than piercing through them and tearing them.

The size of the needle depends on the type of Jersey :

  – Size 75/11 and 80/12 for light or medium weight knits

 –   Size 90/14 for heavier fabrics

No special thread is needed. Normal polyester thread works absolutely fine on knit fabrics.

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I hope all these informations helped. I wish you to have a good time with your next project involving knit material. 😊😊

You can find lovely jersey fabrics on https://www.eco-bee-fabrics.com

Remember to use your 5% discount on Eco-bee website  when signing up to my newsletter.

Enjoy !!

 

Rachel

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